Everything you need will be included. This includes the aluminum frame and hardware for mounting. The Anchor Sight is assembled, so you only need the two screws for mounting the frame to the riser and two screws for mounting the Anchor Sight onto the frame. All items are included in a packet that also contains three brass washers and an Allen Key for turning the micro screws. All micro screws are assembled and factory preset for correct tension.
The Anchor Sight will fit on virtually any bow. The instructional video on our website and FB page will show how.
Absolutely not! In fact, it makes shooting your bow simpler and much more enjoyable. It's amazing how many archers have been conditioned into believing that a peep sight is necessary for shooting accurately and that you have to practice to develop a shooting form that you can consistently repeat. A peep sight is simply a hole in your string, but it has been made a standard by the industry out of convenience and lack of a better option. Now there is a better option!
The Anchor Sight is better in every respect. First, it adds stability, as it's attached to the ridged part of your bow. The invisible sight line it projects makes your eye become the rear sight giving you maximum distance between your eye and front sight, a key to accuracy. Plus, the sensitivity is adjustable. You can adjust the sensitivity of a peep only by changing the peep size which means pressing your bow, etc. The Anchor Sight is better in low light and offers a full-spectrum view of your target in all lighting conditions. It allows you to choose the anchor point that feels right for you and one that is conducive to best form. If you sight-in with perfect form, it's very difficult to shoot any other way. Due to the magnification, all aspects regarding torque or other shooting issues readily become apparent, which gives you the opportunity to become a better shooter by seeing and reacting to errors before the shot is released.
I don't think you will be disappointed at all on how the Anchor Sight will help you find your inconsistencies. The thing I have always liked is that fact I can shoot one arrow to check if anything has changed, then go hunting. If things have changed, it's a quick fix for me because I have learned what my tendencies are and I can quickly correct form issues. It may take you a little while to figure out what the Anchor Sight is telling you; but from day one, you should see the benefits of the information it provides.
If you have ever shot a recurve bow, you did not have your eye behind the string; and you came back to a natural anchor point. You can shoot exactly the same way with your compound bow, and I recommend that you do just that. Once you get comfortable with the anchor point you have chosen, you can glance at your level bubble then make the shot. With an Anchor Sight, it’s the same process. You glance at the Anchor Sight and make the shot. There is no need to look at your level bubble, as the Anchor Sight gives you that information as well.
If your bow was set up with a peep, the draw length was dictated, to a large extent, for the best placement of the peep in relation to your eye. Having to place your eye in a position dictated by the peep is not a natural anchor point for most.
If you want to see what it feels like using the Anchor Sight just start shooting without using your peep and use the anchor point you come to naturally. Sight in your bow and shoot until you are totally comfortable with your new anchor point/eye position. When you get the Anchor Sight, you line it up to that exact same eye position. This is easily done by using the micro-adjustments until your arrows are again on-target. This means your eye is now positioned exactly where it was when you first sighted in.
I have discovered that the anchor location is not that important when using the Anchor Sight. If you have your eye positioned so the dot is centered, you don't apply torque on the bow, and get off a flawless release, you will hit what you aim at. It is as accurate as you can shoot; this has been demonstrated time and again.
One more point I should make is that a target shooter repeating the same shot at the same distance will get as good with a peep as anything else because of the robotic repetition. The same would be true if using the Anchor Sight shooting targets. Where the Anchor Sight will benefit the most is for hunting/3D shooting where the environment tends to fluctuate. When you start feeling fatigue in the later rounds, you can get totally lost with a peep. When you get even a little twisted up in a hunting situation and you grip the bow differently, the Anchor Sight will give you instant information to help you correct before the shot is released. This is the Anchor Sight difference!
Yes, it is possible to use the AS. with you left eye and we have a few that do just that. There are issues that you will encounter however and they are: You need to get your left eye as close to the string as possible because you need to move your front pins out the same distance your eye is off the string plus the 1/8 th inch to compensate for our frame thickness. You can test this before you buy by simply shooting your bow using your left eye and move your front pin out to get arrows on target. Once you have gotten sighted in and have your arrows on target, then you will need another 1/8 th inch outward with your front pin. If you can get enough windage (out) on your pins and shoot arrow groups on target you will be able to use the AS.
No, anchoring the same is seldom the problem, it's torquing the bow handle. Some say that the Anchor Sight and String Slitter is the most accurate system you can have but most will tell you it is simply redundant. If you are looking through the string and the Anchor sight is not lined up, which are you going to move to get lined up? Not the String Splitter because you must be torquing the bow grip. If you don't torque the bow (which the Anchor Sight is showing) and align the dot in the circle of the AS... the String Splitter becomes irrelevant because your eye is in the correct position already. If you only use a peep and torque the bow you won't even see the torque. Having something on the string may help you correct your bow grip if you practice with the Anchor sight but I think the best thing to do is practice your grip until you no longer torque the bow and allow your string to be free of anything. http://www.bowtube.com/media/6/Get_A_Grip/
Yes, but that doesn’t matter. Remember a anchor point is only a Eye position and the AS will allow you to range change by changing your eye position and viewing that change in the AS... You range change with a rifle when taking a full bead vs. fine bead by changing your eye position, this is done with a slight upward tilt of the head. The Anchor Sight works the same way. You will be able to easily range out to 40 yards with just a slight tilt up of your head leaving your anchor point in place..
Yes, you can use the AS with a one pin slider type sight if you mount the AS to the rear of the riser toward the cable. There are some issues with Hoyt’s V tech risers so call us to be sure. PH. 218 563 2800
Only if that is the only place you feel comfortable but keep in mind your tendency to look behind your string can be caused by having the bow set up for a peep sight, meaning the draw length was set so your eye would be able to look thru the peep. This forces you to conform your anchor point to the peep’s position.
Wherever the natural anchor point ends up is where your eye should be but to the left of the string is the most common for a right handed shooter.
The simple answer to your question is; you sight the Anchor Sight to line up to your eye position when at your preferred natural anchor point. To get a better idea of this, start shooting your bow not using your peep sight until you determine your best anchor point. When not using the peep you will see the immediate advantage of having an open field of view to your target. Once you have discovered your preferred anchor point you simply line up the dot in the circle of the Anchor Sight to that exact eye position, lock it down and you are finished. You use your own front sight pin/pins to aim at the target and have an unobstructed view to your target. A quick check of your eye alignment will assure you of an accurate shot, provided you execute the shot properly, and the Anchor Sight will help you learn how to execute the shot because of the feedback it provides. You will see an increase in consistency/accuracy in the field, especially when shooting from a tree stand or any awkward position you may find yourself when hunting. It also adds precious minutes to evening hunting hours.
With the exception of just plain bad shooting, torque is the number one reason for inaccuracy and it creeps into our lives silently and invisibly. The only time we don’t worry much about it is when we shoot at the range like a bunch of robots. Taking great care to place our feet in exactly the same place and all the rest of the highly practiced shot process. When we do this we achieve almost perfect form and great accuracy.
Take us out of that environment and we don’t fair so well. Maybe you have to twist at the waist or lean down and you may be excited so you unknowingly grip the bow handle a little differently. Your anchor point doesn’t feel right, you seem a bit hunched up and your string is pressing into your face more than it should. Your head seems to be leaning over farther to see through the peep! There you are, you have the shot... but you know you are out of sorts and have no confidence you should even take the shot.
You have the peep lined up with the front sight and the animal so how could you miss the mark?...Torque my friend. Do whatever you can to cheat torque because you can’t fight something you can’t see.