Everything you need will be included. This includes the aluminum frame and hardware for mounting. The Anchor Sight is assembled, so you only need the two screws for mounting the frame to the riser and two screws for mounting the Anchor Sight onto the frame. All items are included in a packet that also contains three brass washers and an Allen Key for turning the micro screws. All micro screws are assembled and factory preset for correct tension.
The Anchor Sight will fit on virtually any bow. The instructional video on our website and FB page will show how.
Absolutely not! In fact, it makes shooting your bow simpler and much more enjoyable. It's amazing how many archers have been conditioned into believing that a peep sight is necessary for shooting accurately and that you have to practice to develop a shooting form that you can consistently repeat. A peep sight is simply a hole in your string, but it has been made a standard by the industry out of convenience and lack of a better option. Now there is a better option!
The Anchor Sight is better in every respect. First, it adds stability, as it's attached to the ridged part of your bow. The invisible sight line it projects makes your eye become the rear sight giving you maximum distance between your eye and front sight, a key to accuracy. Plus, the sensitivity is adjustable. You can adjust the sensitivity of a peep only by changing the peep size which means pressing your bow, etc. The Anchor Sight is better in low light and offers a full-spectrum view of your target in all lighting conditions. It allows you to choose the anchor point that feels right for you and one that is conducive to best form. If you sight-in with perfect form, it's very difficult to shoot any other way. Due to the magnification, all aspects regarding torque or other shooting issues readily become apparent, which gives you the opportunity to become a better shooter by seeing and reacting to errors before the shot is released.
I don't think you will be disappointed at all on how the Anchor Sight will help you find your inconsistencies. The thing I have always liked is that fact I can shoot one arrow to check if anything has changed, then go hunting. If things have changed, it's a quick fix for me; because I have learned what my tendencies are; and I can quickly correct form issues. It may take you a little while to figure out what the Anchor Sight is telling you; but from day one, you should see the benefits of the information it provides.
If you have ever shot a recurve bow, you did not have your eye behind the string; and you came back to a natural anchor point. You can shoot exactly the same way with your compound bow, and I recommend that you do just that. Once you get comfortable with the anchor point you have chosen, you can glance at your level bubble then make the shot. With an Anchor Sight, it’s the same process. You glance at the Anchor Sight and make the shot. There is no need to look at your level bubble, as the Anchor Sight gives you that information as well.
If your bow was set up with a peep, the draw length was dictated, to a large extent, for the best placement of the peep in relation to your eye. Having to place your eye in a position dictated by the peep is not a natural anchor point for most.
If you want to see what it feels like using the Anchor Sight just start shooting without using your peep and use the anchor point you come to naturally. Sight in your bow and shoot until you are totally comfortable with your new anchor point/eye position. When you get the Anchor Sight, you line it up to that exact same eye position. This is easily done by using the micro-adjustments until your arrows are again on-target. This means your eye is now positioned exactly where it was when you first sighted in.
I have discovered that the anchor location is not that important when using the Anchor Sight. If you have your eye positioned so the dot is centered, you don't apply torque on the bow, and get off a flawless release, you will hit what you aim at. It is as accurate as you can shoot; this has been demonstrated time and again.
One more point I should make is that a target shooter repeating the same shot at the same distance will get as good with a peep as anything else because of the robotic repetition. The same would be true if using the Anchor Sight shooting targets. Where the Anchor Sight will benefit the most is for hunting/3D shooting where the environment tends to fluctuate. When you start feeling fatigue in the later rounds, you can get totally lost with a peep. When you get even a little twisted up in a hunting situation and you grip the bow differently, the Anchor Sight will give you instant information to help you correct before the shot is released. This is the Anchor Sight difference!
Welcome to the art of archery and this is an interesting question because you will do exactly the same thing with a peep sight and not know for sure what is causing the errant shots. The Anchor Sight shows you what is happening with your shot . Yes, you can torque the bow to center the dot or change eye position to center the dot, but that's not what you want to do. With what the Anchor Sight is showing, you learn how important the bow grip is and how critical it is not to apply any torque. The problem is not with the Anchor Sight because it is a constant, it a simple matter of you correcting your form and letting the Anchor Sight help you through that process.
The Anchor Sight can be the bearer of bad news...’You have a form problem’. Don’t blame the messenger, use the information to correct yourself.
There is a great video called ‘Get a grip’ by Larry Wise. Type this into any search engine and you will find the video. This video can help anyone with a torque issue.
Yes, it is possible to use the AS. with you left eye and we have a few that do just that. There are issues that you will encounter however and they are: You need to get your left eye as close to the string as possible because you need to move your front pins out the same distance your eye is off the string plus the 1/8 th inch to compensate for our frame thickness. You can test this before you buy by simply shooting your bow using your left eye and move your front pin out to get arrows on target. Once you have gotten sighted in and have your arrows on target, then you will need another 1/8 th inch outward with your front pin. If you can get enough windage (out) on your pins and shoot arrow groups on target you will be able to use the AS.
Again, this is one of those questions that force one to say, 'yes it could happen', so it becomes an issue. If I were to purchase a peep sight, I could ask the same question; What happen if water or a snow flake gets in the hole when I'm at full draw? Who ever is selling the peep would have to respond with 'Yes that Could happen'... Then you begin to think of all the possibilities that could occur with the peep; What if it rotates, What if I can't see through if because of low light or rain etc.So do you walk away thinking maybe I should not use a peep? If this is really a concern you may want to consider using a String Splitter with the AS... I have been out in the rain many times and have never seen where rain made the AS unusable, just don’t wipe the lens with your finger because the oil from you hand will smear the lens. One other thing should be mentioned and that is, if you hunt in the rain you had better make a perfect shot because you will have no blood trial.
No, anchoring the same is seldom the problem, it's torquing the bow handle. Some say that the Anchor Sight and String Slitter is the most accurate system you can have but most will tell you it is simply redundant. If you are looking through the string and the Anchor sight is not lined up, which are you going to move to get lined up? Not the String Splitter because you must be torquing the bow grip. If you don't torque the bow (which the Anchor Sight is showing) and align the dot in the circle of the AS... the String Splitter becomes irrelevant because your eye is in the correct position already. If you only use a peep and torque the bow you won't even see the torque. Having something on the string may help you correct your bow grip if you practice with the Anchor sight but I think the best thing to do is practice your grip until you no longer torque the bow and allow your string to be free of anything. http://www.bowtube.com/media/6/Get_A_Grip/
It is a vent hole so air temperature equalizes faster, reducing the chance of fogging. Fogging can occur but if you use a anti fog lens cleaner before going into a harsh weather condition the moisture will bead and you will be able to see to center the dot. Don't wipe the lens with your fingers, the oil on your hand will cause a problem. You can also wrap the lens with plastic and pluck it off before the shot.
The ABS is the original AS and has been proven in the field for years. The Aluminum sight functions exactly the same but has a anodized finish and Logo which makes if very attractive.
We are set up to give you any support you need. I doubt you will find any Anchor Sight dealers in your area. One of the biggest problems with inventing a new concept is getting people to spend time learning how it works and then teaching others. Having said that, we have one pro shop in Rochester, MN. That has sold hundreds of Anchor Sights...The owner has used one since 2003 and actually knows what it is and what it does. 99% of pro shop don’t sell the Anchor Sight and most likely will steer you away from it if they don’t carry it.
Yes, but that doesn’t matter. Remember a anchor point is only a Eye position and the AS will allow you to range change by changing your eye position and viewing that change in the AS... You range change with a rifle when taking a full bead vs. fine bead by changing your eye position, this is done with a slight upward tilt of the head. The Anchor Sight works the same way. You will be able to easily range out to 40 yards with just a slight tilt up of your head leaving your anchor point in place..
Yes, you can use the AS with a one pin slider type sight if you mount the AS to the rear of the riser toward the cable. There are some issues with Hoyt’s V tech risers so call us to be sure. PH. 218 563 2800
Only if that is the only place you feel comfortable but keep in mind your tendency to look behind your string can be caused by having the bow set up for a peep sight, meaning the draw length was set so your eye would be able to look thru the peep. This forces you to conform your anchor point to the peep’s position.
Wherever the natural anchor point ends up is where your eye should be but to the left of the string is the most common for a right handed shooter.
You may not have a strong dominate right eye so closing the left eye is OK...
Where ever you feel most comfortable is where you want to anchor. You do not need to use a Kisser button. Remember, an anchor point is only for establishing a Eye Position consistently. When you line up the AS...you have to have your eye in that one position so a kisser or peep sight will only be redundant and less affective than the AS...
The fogging issue can happen when condensation occurs because of extremely high relative humidity or sudden temperature changes. In the last 10 years I have had 3 or 4 similar complaints and I have spent time on this issue personally because I am an avid hunter and understand the concern. I have been using the anchor sight technology for at least 20 years and I don't miss many days in the field during archery season. I can only remember a few times when fogging became an issue severe enough to prevent me from using it and if I had been using a peep sight all of those years I'm sure there be many more times I would have lost a shot opportunity due to low light conditions or string twist.
Having said this, there are several things one can do regarding fogging or rainy conditions. Personally I don't hunt in the rain because you can't track animals and like many hunters I learned that lesson the hard way. I have experimented in marginal conditions with covering the Anchor Sight with a plastic covering which can easily be made with household items and simply plucked it off before the shot. If I were hunting in high humidity, Misty conditions which could possibly cause extreme fogging I would consider breaking open a hand warmer packet, activate and stick it in my pocket. If needed, you would simply hold it around the lens area of the Anchor Sight until clear, usually within 30 seconds.
But again, I don't want to make this sound like a serious issue because compared to a peep the anchor sight is many times more likely to function properly when needed.
There is one other point I would like to make which works for me. I hunt from the ground and can always find a natural blind somewhere within 20 yards of the trail so I practice from a sitting position at 23 yards. I can go out and sit on my pail with total confidence that I can put the arrow within the kill zone, first arrow, without using the Anchor Sight because I have developed a feel for the shot due to the exact replication made possible by using the Anchor Sight. In a hunting situation I will always consult the Anchor Sight because it will tell me I may be too nervous and shaky to make the shot. I had this happen a few years ago when drawing on a large Buck and I took a few extra seconds to settle in and steady myshot resulting in a clean kill.
The simple answer to your question is; you sight the Anchor Sight to line up to your eye position when at your preferred natural anchor point. To get a better idea of this, start shooting your bow not using your peep sight until you determine your best anchor point. When not using the peep you will see the immediate advantage of having an open field of view to your target. Once you have discovered your preferred anchor point you simply line up the dot in the circle of the Anchor Sight to that exact eye position, lock it down and you are finished. You use your own front sight pin/pins to aim at the target and have an unobstructed view to your target. A quick check of your eye alignment will assure you of an accurate shot, provided you execute the shot properly, and the Anchor Sight will help you learn how to execute the shot because of the feedback it provides. You will see an increase in consistency/accuracy in the field, especially when shooting from a tree stand or any awkward position you may find yourself when hunting. It also adds precious minutes to evening hunting hours.
With the exception of just plain bad shooting, torque is the number one reason for inaccuracy and it creeps into our lives silently and invisibly. The only time we don’t worry much about it is when we shoot at the range like a bunch of robots. Taking great care to place our feet in exactly the same place and all the rest of the highly practiced shot process. When we do this we achieve almost perfect form and great accuracy.
Take us out of that environment and we don’t fair so well. Maybe you have to twist at the waist or lean down and you may be excited so you unknowingly grip the bow handle a little differently. Your anchor point doesn’t feel right, you seem a bit hunched up and your string is pressing into your face more than it should. Your head seems to be leaning over farther to see through the peep! There you are, you have the shot... but you know you are out of sorts and have no confidence you should even take the shot.
You have the peep lined up with the front sight and the animal so how could you miss the mark?...Torque my friend. Do whatever you can to cheat torque because you can’t fight something you can’t see.